Under a moonlit sky and the glow of headlamps, workers gingerly pluck grape clusters while much of Portugal sleeps.
They harvest in the Alentejo region, sometimes called the “Tuscany of Portugal” for its rolling vineyards, olive groves and forests that supply cork for the wines. In this vineyard about a 90-minute drive east of Lisbon, the cool autumn night carries the smell of ripe fruit. The workers’ laughter blends with the sound of rustling leaves.
The night harvest is a time-honoured practice in viticulture, meant to preserve the freshness of grapes and shield them from the adverse effects of daytime heat, sunlight and oxidation. As summers in Portugal grow longer, hotter and more unpredictable – in part due to climate change – the practice has become more common here.
Barbara Monteiro, co-owner and manager of the Herdade Da Fonte Santa vineyard said she struggled at first to convince her harvesters to work at night – midnight to 8am. They began doing so in 2019.
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